KARPATHOS - the 'Windy One' - Santorini and other Islands

The Greek islands have a reputation as a holiday destination, but they also provide a great environment in which to fly, as Michael Gould found out last summer.

G-EYCO is a Robin Regent, built in March 1990 in replacement for Jodel Chevalier G-AYCO which I had operated since February 1970. The first 'CO came onto the British register after a short spell as a demonstrator at Darois, although its final delivery was delayed following the disappearance from Cherbourg Harbour of two gunboats destined for export to Israel. The handing over of those vessels had been held up by the French Government of the day, hence no doubt their sudden disappearance with the ensuing diplomatic rumpus. Regulations were then anxiously researched and a pre-war ordinance discovered which decreed that aircraft with engines exceeding 100hp were war machines. Its accompanying diktat stipulated that export permission was needed for such a beast.

Difficulties are made to be overcome, and while the metamorphosis of F-BRFI into G-AYCO had to be put on hold, the aircraft did make its way to Jersey, piloted by a French national who, regrettably, became indisposed and had to return home by other means. During the months which followed F-BRFI made many forays into French airspace, before its eventual return to France for its formal export and transfer to the British register. For the next twenty years it carried out stalwart service, visiting many corners of France, Switzerland, the British Isles and Ireland, as since has G-EYCO in its place.

With this background -- and if aircraft have feelings -- G-EYCO must have been surprised to learn that it was to be required to leave the known bounds of Swiss, French, British and Irish airspace, to journey through that of the Italians, with their curious habits, and on through Greece to Karpathos and other destinations.

The planning for this journey was exhaustive, if not exhausting, and interesting, and probably the first message to any pilot of similar experience and capabilities is just that -- the homework is vital, but is fun. The GPS, with the information which it can supply, is a marvellous aid, but the importance of Bottlang, the Notams of the countries to be visited, topographical charts as up to date as can be obtained and the current Aerad Low Level Charts, cannot be overestimated. Great help was also given for this voyage by Mrs Youli Kalafati, the Vice Chairman of IAOPA Greece, who drew attention to the Notams which, in so far as concerns the more distant Islands in particular, are updated nationally with some frequency. Another message is therefore: ask around, for the information is there.

The preparation complete, we decided that the journey should be a holiday, with reasonable time spent at a number of destinations, beginning with an early stop at Skiathos, in the North Aegean, before the onset of the tourist season, and thence onto Karpathos. By arriving at Karpathos -- the Windy One, a descriptive name which we didn't know about before departure -- we hoped to avoid the Meltemi wind, said to blow in the South Aegean from mid-July onwards.

'We' were myself, a PPL and IMC with some 1,600 hours, and my wife who has no qualification, but much experience in the right hand seat and a knowledge of navigation dating back to 1966. The journey started from Jersey on June 11th. The intended route was Jersey - Nevers, for a fuel and comfort stop and then onwards to Calvi in Corsica. This was to be followed on the next day by Naples, again for fuel and a stretch, and thence to Corfu with a further overnight stop.

 

 

Jersey to Nevers

The weather briefing from Jersey Met had good and bad news. It was apparent that G-EYCO would have an extremely favourable wind -- 20 - 40 knots directly from behind, for the first day. However, this information was accompanied by the possibility of substantial clouds and showers on the way to friendly Nevers, and the probability of CBs up to 17,000' over the Massif Central, with a good deal of cloud cover. Calvi was likely to be 'breezy'. The estimated flight time to Nevers was 3 hours 15 minutes, but in the event thanks to the north westerly air flow we made it in 2 hours 55 minutes. The cloud cover proved to be much thicker than had been expected, and we quickly moved from flight level 55 to 75 and then to flight level 95. At that level we found blue sky and sunshine and the (invaluable) GPS indicated ground speeds varying between 140 and 160 knots as opposed to the expected still air cruise of 130 knots.

Re-fuelling at Nevers was self service, and soon after we'd paid for the fuel and landing fees the tower personnel departed for lunch, leaving us to our own devices but locked out of the airport building. Fortunately we'd brought sandwiches and found a sanctuary of peace and calm at a flying club. Here the personnel also left for lunch -- but only after explaining how to lock the door on leaving! Leave we did -- at the second attempt, following an abortive initial departure involving contact with an unfortunate bird. Regrettably the bird suffered irreparable structural damage: G-EYCO was unscathed.

 

Nevers to Calvi

Soon after the second take-off, we established contact with the military controller at St Yan, who acknowledged happily G-EYCO's intention to climb initially to flight level 75 and then to flight level 95. All went well, save that on leaving the St Yan frequency contact was not readily made with Marseilles Information. Cloud cover and size rapidly increased and by Roanne, and G-EYCO was in and out of the tops at flight level 115. A brief incursion into those tops approaching MTL made it clear that this was not going to be a rewarding experience, and we only maintained VMC by dint of some evasive action.

The initial flight out of Nevers produced views of rolling countryside which gradually changed to the hills and then the mountains of the Massif Central, with Roanne tucked in its valley and Lyon to the west. The clouds interfered with the real enjoyment of these spectacular views for the most part: we consoled ourselves with the thought of better things to come.

A thoughtful orbit was made on arrival at Montelimar, in good VMC, as it looked very much as though substantial cloud cover might impede the required track onwards to Digne. A call to the military base at Salon whose Danger Area lay close to the projected track to DGN told us that the area was active. However, the route was approved, at flight level 75. We rejected this as at that height VMC would certainly have been impossible. After a short pause the controller agreed that the flight could continue at flight 95. The moral of this is that French Military Controllers, if properly approached, are every bit as helpful as their British counterparts.

The GPS showed the track was just (but properly) outside of the Danger Area and we maintained VMC, and the next two sectors from DGN to LUC and STP passed without event, although not without some incursions into cloud. The north westerly air flow continued to hurry G-EYCO on its way.

Although the joint aims of maintaining VMC and keeping clear of the Danger Area took fair concentration, we noted further spectacular views of the mountains on the Montelimar -- Digne -- St Tropez route. The rock formations of the hills and mountains with their deep valleys and gorges and sparsely scattered villages and vineyards sparked a real wish to return at a later date for an exploration on the ground.

We admired the Mediterranean coast was admired, although we soon observed that the dark blue sea was covered with white waves, and we weren't surprised to find that the first sector to OMARD was achieved at a groundspeed of 160 knots as was the next to MERLU.

We awaited the Calvi ATIS with interest: the runway is 18 and the news was thought-provoking -- wind 220 at 19 knots gusting 38, with windshear and turbulence. We continued, and made contact first with Bastia Information and then Calvi Tower. The arrival -- and landing -- were as exciting as the ATIS had indicated it might be. Crosswinds and turbulence, and sometimes windshear, are factors known in the Channel Islands zone but, doubtless as a result of the close proximity of the Corsican mountains, the elements on the approach and landing at Calvi exceeded anything I had previously met. However, an acceptable landing was achieved and G-EYCO was positioned, at the suggestion of a kindly member of the ground personnel, immediately to the north of a solid hedge bordering the Calvi Aeroclub. Well chocked, and with home-built sun screens in place, G-EYCO was left to contemplate the suggested imminent arrival of "strong winds".

Our boisterous arrival at Calvi airport, on the southerly runway, did not really permit us to study the beautiful situation of this airfield properly.

On all approaches other than from the sea the mountains impose their presence, and we later found that downwind left hand for 36 gives a remarkable prospect of ground rising far above the circuit height, at close proximity to starboard.

Turning downwind for 36 at Calvi

The mountains to the south have no real relevance for the circuit as flown by light aircraft but we saw the circuit flown by the commercial jets on subsequent days -- and that is sporty indeed!

Calvi is a small but interesting town with a harbour and good restaurants, all overlooked by an ancient Citadel to which the mountains form a beautiful backdrop. We enjoyed an excellent on a windy seafront, at the Ile de Beauté restaurant followed next day by an unexpected sally by car into the mountains -- the helpful north-westerlies ensured this, as they had developed into yet stronger wind, low cloud, rain, thunder and lightning. The mountain scenery and seascapes had a wild grandeur and we resolved to return to Calvi on the way home, as Corsica obviously had much to offer, and a reconnaissance for a future holiday seemed a good idea.

 

Calvi to Naples

Day three dawned bright and clear. A comprehensive briefing from the Met man indicated good weather on the proposed route, save for the possibility of a front of insignificant proportions over Naples through to Brindisi. Flight planning was completed -- self service by fax -- with the important inclusion on the plan to Naples of the items req. fuel 100 L and Flight Number 5. This latter was vital, as reference to the Special Notes in Bottlang had shown, correctly, that General Aviation flights into Naples must have prior approval and be given a flight number which is to be quoted on the flightplan.

We had decided to follow the offshore VFR route to Naples: which first took G-EYCO over Elba at Flight level 75. This was noted to be another beautiful island and a possible future destination. The flight then continued at the required increasingly low levels for the sector to Ponza and onward to Capri. For a considerable distance this route requires aircraft travelling in either direction to fly at 1,000 feet amsl, which seems a bit odd, but does avoid the remarkable VFR routes around Rome, with their many reporting points and opposing traffic, likewise at the same level.

Before reaching Elba, we had been released by Bastia Information to call Rome. No contact could be made and eventually the transmissions were kindly relayed by the pilot of an Italian aircraft. I was flattered to be told that 'your English is very good'.

Stunning views were enjoyed of Gilio, Ponza, Isschia and Capri: these are green and cultivated islands, dotted with farms and vineyards and a good scattering of villas and pretty villages and towns. Yachts and other vessels were much in evidence at what must be attractive weekend or holiday destinations from the Italian mainland.

Next Vesuvius loomed, for the route inland to Naples from Capri, at 1,500 feet agl, takes aircraft to within a mile or two of that impressive feature and it is easy to understand the alarm caused by the current belief that the question is not whether, but when, an eruption will next occur -- the vast and depressing urban sprawl of Naples and its suburb towns continues right up to the lower reaches of the volcano.

Mount Vesuvius with the encroaching suburbs of Naples

Following a lengthy hold to allow for the arrival of incoming commercial traffic, G-EYCO landed at Naples after a flight of 2 hours 40 minutes, as opposed to the estimate of 2 hours 55 -- the north westerly was still blowing.

Naples proved to be very busy and very commercial. The inclusion of the request for fuel on the flightplan did result in a direction to taxi to the fuel pumps and fuelling was carried out speedily and efficiently. However, despite the levying of a handling charge, the ground handling agents, Gesac, were notable by their absence and we experienced some difficulty in finding the Civil Aviation Office for the payment of fees. After a very hot walk around the tarmac, the appropriate office was found at last: where the personnel were helpful and pleasant, and willingly drove the crew of G-EYCO back to the fuel pumps and the waiting aircraft.

 

Naples to Corfu

During all of these operations we noted that large clouds were building up in the general direction of Vesuvius and to the South West. We duly departed and having completed the mandatory VFR low level track passing Torre Del Greco, it was clear that the climb to the required height of flight level 95 might not be sufficient for VMC to be maintained. This proved to be so and G-EYCO once again climbed to Flight Level 115 where the sky was blue and the sun was shining. However, the clouds continued to build and just as it began to look as though a higher level might be required, all contact was lost with Flight Information and the GPS took fright and stopped producing signals. The clouds increased in height and a tenuous grip on VMC was maintained for a long 15 or 20 minutes. Happily things then improved, and occasional views of the ground were to be had: the GPS re-activated itself, and contact was established with Brindisi Information. Passing over the silent Military Base at Gioia del Colle, G-EYCO soon reached Brindisi and set out over the sea again, for Corfu. Soon cloud and rain materialised, but the flight continued in the knowledge that the Corfu weather, obtained by Brindisi Information, was wind calm and Cavok.

Corfu -- aka Ioannis Kapodistrias -- Airport turned out to be one of many beautifully situated airports visited during the journey, having water on two sides and stunning views of a green Island with its mountains and pretty town and castle.

The runway at Corfu seen from the north. Nearby mountains were a feature of many airfields we visted

The landing was in bright sunshine and calm air, after a flight of 2 hours 15 minutes as compared with the estimate of 2 hours 20 -- perhaps the north westerly was abating?

G-EYCO was secured and sun screens fixed and fuelling carried out -- a useful message here for others journeying afar: to fuel up on arrival may be tedious at the time but it does take out one delaying element before departure -- in the French phrase il faut saisir le bon moment, for fuel men are often difficult to locate.

Corfu town was largely built in the 14th Century and is of considerable beauty and attraction with three- and four- storey houses towering over narrow streets in the older part, while the later additions have an open renaissance style with handsome streets, small squares and fine Venetian houses -- and there are many good restaurants, and in the warmer times of the year, good opportunities for eating out and watching the world go by.

Following an enjoyable evening, the next day dawned to blue skies and sunshine accentuating the beauty of the Venetian Fortezza Nuova standing guard over the town.

 

Corfu to Skiathos

It had been decided to take the short route to the next island destination, Skiathos. This entailed tracking to the military base at Ioannina and thence over the mountains with a minimum required height of 8,000 feet. The Met Officer in attendance had no problems other than a suggestion of scattered cloud and some slight possibility of turbulence. The pilot therefore elected to follow that route and went to the Tower to file the flightplan, the first of many such visits during the voyage. He was greeted with helpful courtesy and this formality was carried out, the controllers being at pains to supply the identities of the military bases to which it would be necessary to speak, with their frequencies. The pilot then returned to the Met Office, where the navigator had been left to enjoy the air conditioning, the outside temperature having already reached the high 30s.

However, in the interim, the navigator had been in conversation with the Senior Met Officer who had now arrived. The holder of a PPL, he warned of turbulence over the mountains on the route chosen: the jetstream which had been helping G-EYCO was now causing difficulties all over the southern reaches of Europe, and we'd heard reports of severe turbulence encountered by commercial aircraft passing over the selfsame mountains on the way into Athens. The navigator therefore proposed that the alternative route along the Gulf of Corinth and then following the Athens VFR routing via Parnis to Tanagra, should be used. The Met Officer seconded this proposition, which was carried unanimously.

The Tower happily amended the flightplan on verbal instruction and the first of many truly scenic and remarkable flights in Greek airspace.

Initially splendid views were obtained of Corfu town and its fortress, with the brown and black of the Albanian Mountains in the distance. Thence to the KRK at the southwest corner of the Island, which spread itself in green beauty, apparently deserted and lapped by a still blue sea.

After first paying attention to the levels required for VFR flights in the Corfu area, G-EYCO eventually climbed to flight level 95 and spectacular views were enjoyed of the mountains to port and those of the Pelaponese to starboard: it was also seen, although comment was unnecessary, that the mountains to the north, but a short distance inland, were shrouded in meaningful clouds. The Corinth canal duly appeared and following contact with the military bases at Prevedza and Andravida, conversation was resumed with Athens Information. I must emphasise that throughout, all Controllers in Greek airspace, whether Military or Civilian, were clear, pleasant and helpful.

The VFR route passing to the north west of Athens has mandatory levels, of 6,000' altitude in the present instance, which eventually gave a fine prospect of the PARNIS reporting point, in close proximity and, visually at least, at a very similar level.

Fine views continued, of Loutraki and Megara to starboard, the latter with its large military base out of which operate the Aurigny-coloured aircraft used to gather water from the Aegean sea, for dumping on forest fires: and of the Halcyon sea to port with Skinos and its attendant Islands. That sea was blue as ever, the mountains rugged and stark -- and later Athens and Piraeus, brown and smoggy.

The steely voiced lady Air Traffic Controller at Athens Information was (quite rightly) at pains to be sure that I was fully acquainted with the heights, track and reporting points through her zone: the answers I gave, the result of extensive homework, proved to be correct. No compliments were expected or given, I like to think that she registered approval.

Eventually, following transfer to Tanagra approach, we passed over Evia, mountainous and so nearly a part of the mainland Greece that it remains a purely a Greek holiday destination, and then on towards the Sporades, soon to be presented with Skiathos to port and Skopelos to starboard. Here the immediate impression was of mountainous islands of great beauty cloaked in green and surrounded by white sandy beaches and blue seas.

The approach to Skiathos airport is 'enticing' - and quite beautiful

The approach to Skiathos airport was as beautiful as any we had seen in 32 years' flying.

The airport itself is situated towards the western corner of the island: on longish finals the track passes over islets of varying sizes, idyllic in appearance.

On final approach, the pretty town of Skiathos lies to port with a harbour filled with fishing boats, yachts and ferries, and red pantiled roofs which clothe the hillside. To starboard are green hills, and in the near distance, Skopelos, hilly and verdant.

The runway itself is gathering, placed in a shallow valley.

Downwind right for runway 02 at Skiathos

A few days later, dining in one of the many restaurants in Skiathos town which overlook the harbour, fascinating views were had of commercial jets carrying out this same exercise.

The gaze of the arriving tourists in those aircraft was happily returned: the prospect of the harbour, other islands and arriving aircraft at such close range is entertaining indeed.

The proposed stay in Skiathos was for five nights and G-EYCO was duly picketed and screened and the crew left to embark upon the delights of an attractive Island. Skiathos is beautiful and what was anticipated from the air was justified on the ground. It is claimed that there are some 62 beaches with good swimming, and this may indeed be the case, for those visited were excellent. While the Island cannot be recommended as a destination for high season, as many of its seaside resources are well, if not over developed, just out of season, and provided a good sleeping place is found it is indeed worth a visit. The restaurants were looking for custom, the quieter beaches were just that, and the drives into the green hills and mountains were almost deserted. Even so, the best known beaches such as that at Koukounaries had no appeal to the crew of G-EYCO, reinforced with the knowledge that their island beaches sport few with deck chairs, and none with deck chairs in two or three rows, as was the case even at this time of the year, at Koukounaries.

However, fate and a diligent examination of tourist guides had led to us choosing the Plaza Hotel at Kanapitsa, a small, almost private beach looking over six or seven miles of clear blue sea to Skiathos town. The hotel was modern and well run with most pleasant staff and the taverna on the beach was welcoming, having just opened for the first week of the season.

The diet of the next few weeks was then begun: fresh fish, Greek salad, octopus salad, squid and, a good and happy discovery -- the Greek wines were found to be excellent indeed: of this more later, as the research was painstaking and intensive.

On the day before we were intending to leave we visited the Airport to consult the Met to find how things were looking at Karpathos. This enquiry elicited the promise of winds gusting from 30 to 40 knots with the probability of turbulence and the equal probability that this state of affairs would continue throughout the next two or three days. Flexibility was to be the keynote of the journey and we therefore decided to defer departure for three days and to explore the Island with its mountain tracks, distant views of Evia and mainland Greece and its many beaches and tavernas continued.

The wind still blew from the north west, but the advantage of an island, especially if mountainous, is that it should always be possible to find places to swim and eat and drink out of wind. The restaurants in Skiathos town are excellent and varied and the town itself, a port with narrow roads and alleyways leading off, was enchanting. Quiet Tavernas appeared to order in the mountains -- one comes to mind which looks down from 2,000 feet or so upon the town and its harbour, the airport and the sea, to Skopelo in the distance, and this and others at Vromolimnos and elsewhere, were greatly enjoyed.

Two days later a further visit was paid to the airport and Athens Met was consulted again by telephone. The ability to ring this department and speak to helpful and positive forecasters was another of the features of the journey around the Islands, and, just as at the home base of G-EYCO, it was always possible to speak to a real live Met officer, and the satellite charts, actuals and TAFs were readily obtainable.

All of this said, the forecast for Karpathos was still somewhat brusque although with the possibility of lighter winds, and no emphasis on turbulence, so we decided to set off on the following day as planned.

 

Skiathos to Karpathos

The first sector to Marathon, to take on fuel, took 50 minutes. We noted some radio masts in close proximity to the western boundary of the airfield, and enjoyed some helpful conversations en route with the military controllers at Tanagra and Kotroni and enjoyed still more rugged mountain views.

Downwind left for 34 at Marathon

The ground-staff at Marathon were efficient and helpful: a landing fee of £1 was paid - the landing and parking at Skiathos had amounted in total to £19 -

and eventually, armed with a letter of introduction from the representative of the Civil Aviation Authority to my cousin Nikos with the restaurant at Karpathos, G-EYCO set off with destination Karpathos, at 0815 UTC.

This proved to be a flight of enthralling panoramic views, passing over Kea, and then in short order Syros, Mykinos, Kos and many other Islands named and nameless before brushing past the north west corner of Rhodes. Each island differed from that going before: all set in a blue sea, some green, for the most part brown, barren and rugged, some with beaches, others with great cliffs against which waves could be seen to be beating. We noted, without comment, that the sea was becoming increasingly flecked with white, although the weather given on the Athens Volmet for Rhodes was reassuring. However, by the time we'd transferred to Karpathos Information with 25 miles to run the sea was blue, with raging white wave tops, and a strong headwind.

The runway at Karpathos, as with the majority of the Islands, lies directly into the prevailing wind and we were instructed to position for a landing on 34 right, the current wind being 330° at 40 knots. The approach was roughish until short finals and, supported by the admonition from the Tower Controller to have a nice landing, G-EYCO alighted gently at 1025 UTC -- with a flight time well ahead of the still air estimate of 2 hours 40 minutes. Slow taxying was the order of the day but was carried out without alarms.

Karpathos Airport was the first of a number of airfields in the Islands which we visited or viewed from the air which have twin runways, all constructed by NATO in Cold War days.

The twin runways of Karpathos

It lies at the southwest corner of the Island, facing directly into the north westerly blast and it was with relief indeed that we found that ring bolt tie downs were available. The tying down and the positioning of screens was no mean exercise in the wind which was building towards a late afternoon crescendo of 50 knots plus. The "tower" at Karpathos is a Nissen hut with a limited ground floor view of part of the runway: the controllers and ground staff were charm itself. As for the recently constructed new airport building, it is modern, attractive and dinky. It is comparable in size with that at St Brieuc, exceeding that at Alderney by perhaps two thirds or so. For the complement of G-EYCO this was fine, but obviously problems must arise when commercial jets arrive and land with their incoming and outgoing passengers. There is a large car park!

The viewing of Karpathos on arrival had been somewhat inhibited by the study of the wind effect on the sea and preparation for an approach and landing. However, enough had been seen to make it apparent that the journey from the north of the Aegean to the south was to have been worthwhile indeed. Sheltered sandy beaches had been noted with approval, and the Island itself was obviously spectacularly beautiful, long and quite thin with high rugged mountains on which but a few tracks had been seen. All of this later proved to be the case: for the most part Karpathos is mountainous with difficult access and sparse population. It is known as "the Windy One," and on the experience of this visit, the wind blows consistently from the north west, so that the East coast of the Island is to be favoured.

On personal recommendation, we had booked lodgings at the Golden Beach Tavena, with rooms, at Ammopi: this proved to be an inspired choice.

The road from the airport passes at first over the blasted heath of the south west corner (with signs of cultivation: the farmers must be a hardy race) and then over a well surfaced but picturesque mountain road up to 1,500 feet or so, before descending quickly into the small resort of Ammopi. My wife was charmed to be greeted on arrival with a kiss on each cheek from the local lady having charge of the rooms: the accommodation as promised was clean and simple, and given the good through draught, naturally air conditioned. A sizable balcony looked towards the sea, which was very near at hand, and the welcome from the proprietors, Huguette and Nik Maloftis was warm. The Greek diet continued, well bolstered with Ouzo, wine and Mythos, the Greek beer which is rightly making inroads into the existing monopoly of the northern European marques. This is where we watched the World Cup game: the result was a disappointment.

The swimming at Ammopi was excellent, although the small beaches must undoubtedly be crowded during the high season.

After several days spent enjoying the sun and sea, cuisine and beer and wine, a jeep-like vehicle was hired and exploration of the southern part of the Island undertaken. The Island is one of stunning coastal views and mountain scenery, although exploring the rugged mountains of the north would need a longer stay and, if visited by road, the hiring of a larger four wheel drive vehicle would be essential. The combination of mountain villages with their vividly painted blue and white churches and steep roads leading to small seaside ports is eye-catching, although the highlight for the crew of G-EYCO was probably the drive up a recently paved road leading to Kala Limmis, a peak which climbs to some 4,000 feet. Here again the views were spectacular, hardly surprising as the road was unprotected for the most part and the gaze is drawn directly to the sea 3000 feet or so below -- and, as it is largely single track, with many hairpin bends, occasional feelings of apprehension are inescapable. However, we met no other traffic and the belief gradually came that this road had been discovered for the first time. This was truly a journey of great beauty and charm which culminated in a small taverna with a welcoming, if solitary, innkeeper.

On another day, an enjoyable visit was made to Cousin Nikos' restaurant, Pine Trees, on the West coast. After this the northern end of the Island was visited by sea, an absolute must. The boat trip lasted 2.5 - 3 hours, leaving from the principal town of Pigadia and continuing up the east coast of the Island, with yet more views of towering mountains and cliffs. From the arrival port of Diafani a mini coach made its way up yet another mountain road of hairpin bends and vertiginous drops to the remote village of Olympos.

The guide books say that this is one of the most striking villages on the Greek Islands and that it is draped over a stark mountain ridge with a long line of ruined windmills like teeth. To the west are magnificent views of mountains plunging headlong into the sea (with thanks to Dana Facaros and her marvellous Guide to the Greek Islands -- every word is true). The balconies of many of the houses in Olympos do look three or four thousand feet down to the sea, and as no road existed until quite recently, it was easy to believe the observation made by a Finnish tour guide that the village had been constructed using solely the help of mules and monkeys. At the time it was felt that this was a mistake in translation and that probably donkeys were employed, rather than monkeys, but given the situation of many of the buildings perhaps our simian cousins were indeed involved. As a destination Olympos should not be missed: it is now brushed by tourism but the local inhabitants are still to be seen about their ordinary daily affairs in local dress and the views are, once again, quite spectacular. It is possible to arrive by road from the south but the journey would be hard work and a longer stay in the Island needed. The boat trip itself was great fun, although on the return journey a happy moment came when the public address system, which included Zorba's Dance, broke during the third re-run.

 

Karpathos to Santorini via Kos

On June 26th we made a preliminary visit to the "Tower", also to G-EYCO, which remained tied down and screened and was showing no signs of problems from the continuous windy blast. The purpose of this exercise was to make certain that fuel was available at Kos and to check the airport opening hours at Kos and Santorini. This is another vital action: opening hours published in the Notams vary markedly from time to time, but without further ado the controller got through to both airports and confirmed that fuel was indeed available at Kos and that both airports were open H24.

After further days enjoying good swimming, food and drink and exploring the island from the ground and a further trip to the airport on the day before the departure, to file flightplans to Kos and Santorini, we departed to Kos on June 30th, with the enjoyment of a mild and steady zephyr of 340° at 35 knots. The total landing and parking fees at Karpathos had amounted to the princely sum of £21 -- certainly at no time did this aspect of flying in the Greek Islands prove to be a worry.

The sea was its usual beautiful dark blue, with pretty white waves, but a gradual change to a more suitable level blue without the white topping was soon noted with pleasure, as the track was followed to the VFR reporting point ALPHA and thence along the a published VFR route towards the northeast corner of Rhodes and onwards to Kos.

A better view was had of the mountainous ridge which makes up the greater length of Karpathos and it was resolved that if a return was made, the journey from south to north by a four wheel drive vehicle would have to be undertaken.

In the Aegean there is no end to the variety of islands to be seen, and those adjacent to Rhodes and Kos were no exception. Here barren and rugged terrain of stark beauty was the order, although with the occasional village and hamlet, by no means all at the edge of the sea, invoking reflection as to the manner of life in such dry and desolate surroundings. A straight in approach was required at Kos, which proved to be a fairly busy airport -- or at least such was the case for our arrival. We were directed by the Tower after landing to proceed to the southwest (derelict) terminal. After suitable protestations and within a short delay for the arrival of handling and fuel, it transpired that the onward flight plan to Santorini had not been transmitted by the controller at Karpathos. This was soon rectified by telephone and following the payment of yet another moderate landing fee, the flight onwards commenced to Santorini. On this occasion there was no published VFR route but approval was readily given for a direct track to join the Airway B34 at ASTIS at altitude 4,500'.

Shortly before ASTIS the track passed over Astepalia, an island which had been a possible de1stination. The airfield was observed, with usual hard northwest facing runway -- as yet no plan in Bottlang although there are details in the Airport Directory. Surprise, surprise the island appeared to be mountainous and brown although good beaches could be seen. However, the wonders of Santorini lay not far ahead.

The general belief is that the Minoan civilization was centred at Crete and Santorini, with some holding the view that this civilization represented the lost land of Atlantis. Plato described Atlantis as being made up of one round and one long island -- Crete and Santorini perhaps? However, what is known is that in about 1450BC the island which then comprised Santorini blew up. The comparison with the explosion of Krakatoa in 1883 is illuminating: that explosion was heard 3,000 miles away in Western Australia. The Caldera left after the Santorini explosion is three times the size of that of Krakatoa and measures 18 miles around the inner rim. Santorini must surely be one of the natural wonders of the world -- not merely is it different from all of the other Islands, it is not 'like' anything elsewhere.

We had read up the topic but were still not fully prepared for what was to be seen. First, however, the approach and landing: the instruction was, again, to land on runway 34 right, and on the approach and finals the mountain which remains at Santorini was near at hand indeed. G-EYCO was again positioned to a disused terminal, where the usual post landing activities were carried out. We found a taxi and the drive to the principal town, Thira, passed without any scenery of note.

The booking which had been made at the Hotel Atlantis once again proved an inspired choice. This is a town of great charm, in large part of pedestrian access; it is built along the top of the Caldera and the hotel room and balcony looked down from a height of 900' directly to the sea which fills the Caldera. The prospect to either side as well as across to the Island of Koara is spectacular. Koara forms the principal remains of the opposing face of the Caldera, left after the ancient explosion. In the middle distance are three volcanic Islands: of these, Nea Kameni (New Burnt Island) only appeared in 1720 since when volcanic eruptions have added to its size, the most recent at the turn of this century. The last major earthquake at Santorini was in 1957 when Thira was largely destroyed: the whole area is still one of geological activity. Added to these natural wonders the towns -- Thira and Oia -- cling to the very top of the cliff, in white splendour, and the views are magical.

It was soon established that the Santorini wine is of the highest quality, and that the food served in the restaurants of Thira was well up to this challenge. All in all, the first impressions of this latest destination were highly favourable.

On the following day, a bus ride was a taken to Ancient Akrotiri, a Minoan town which only came to light as recently as 1967: it is still in course of excavation. It seems to have been overcome in the second millenium BC, at the time of the great explosion and an interesting fact is that no human or animal remains, jewellery or other valuables have been found: the implication being that its residents must have had plenty of warning for the impending destruction of their Island. What became of them must remain forever a matter of conjecture, for as the tidal wave which followed the explosion of Krakatoa rose to a height of 200 metres, it seems right to assume that the explosion of the island which then formed Santorini must have had an even more devastating result, and any fleet of ships fleeing from the cataclysm will surely have fared ill indeed.

Given its volcanic origins, it is not surprising that the rock formations of Santorini are majestic and many coloured -- red and black, yellow and white, and in close proximity to ancient Akro are to be found the Black Beach and the Red Beach and tavernas serving the freshest fish imaginable. The Aphrodite comes immediately to mind, having as it does the possibility of a swim directly from the lunch table.

On the next day a cruise was taken through the Caldera to the southern coast of the Island, where the most colourful cliffs are to be found and then through the Burnt Islands to Nea Kameni. Here an opportunity was offered and accepted to climb the volcano: this was on the day when the temperature rose to 41°C, and the experience was strenuous although thoroughly worthwhile. The subsequent swim in the sea in an area of hot sulphur springs was a welcome respite, as was later a fine seaside lunch at Koara.

The return journey to Santorini was a remarkable experience: the cliffs rising as they do from sea level to 900' in vertical fashion, are surmounted by Oia and Thira, both of which shine in white splendour on the cliff tops.

The Caldera at Santorini, with Oia perched on the clifftop

At Thira the alternative means of transport from the Port are self propulsion (1,030 steps), or donkeys, or cable cars. For various considerations the latter mode was chosen.

A car was hired for the next day and a general exploration made, with a view to departing to Samos on the following morning. Seascapes with majestic cliffs and island views, scattered tavernas with fish and unusual local specialities, a warm and clean sea and the Boutari vineyard, all are there to be enjoyed.

A visit to the airport at 1730 resulted in alarm and despondency, the prognostication being for winds gusting to 40 - 50 knots with associated turbulence -- what was new? And similar threats were made for the following two days. It has to be said that on this occasion, the Met officer did seem less well versed in his art, and his English was limited, but the weather charts appeared to bear out his conclusion. The only encouraging factor was that the controller in the Tower did not in agree with his assessment.

Dinner was therefore taken with enjoyment tempered with some feelings of frustration, as it was felt that sufficient experience had already been gained of the Aegean winds.

 

Santorini to Samos

However, dawn duly arrived the view from our hotel room showed a calm sea: a phone call was made to the control tower where the wind was reported to be 15 - 20 knots, straight up and down the runway.

A measured but hasty departure from the hotel ensued and after the filing of a flightplan and completion of departure formalities G-EYCO took off at 05.35UTC.

It soon became clear that the gloomy promises were likely to come true in the area later in the day, for at 4,500' altitude, following the airways, G-EYCO was making a ground speed of 90knots as opposed to the indicated airspeed of 130knots. However, the passage was smooth, the sun was shining as ever and the view of Santorini (the round shape of the destroyed Island showing clearly in rearward prospect) Mykinos and other islands in short order, were startling as ever.

On contact with Samos G-EYCO was invited to make a direct approach from the south west and this was done. Shortly before Samos a view was had of Ikaria, another Island which had been considered as a possible destination (also without a Bottlang chart as yet), but spurned in favour of Samos. Ikaria was seen to be mountainous with total cloud cover, in contrast to Samos lying ahead, bathed in sunshine.

The south western extremity of Samos comprises a mountain of 6,000 feet in height into which, we subsequently learned, an Olymic Airways Dornier had plunged a few years before. G-EYCO continued on track, with good views of Samos, a green and very beautiful island much in contrast to most seen since departing Marathon. On passing some 4 or 5 nautical miles to the south of that mountain, unseen forces seized G-EYCO and shook it. The moral is that when strong winds are blowing, it is unwise to pass to leeward of high mountain tops: I was aware of this maxim but had been lulled into false security by the calmness of the flight up to that point. The shaking and rattling passed quite quickly leaving us looking askance at all mountains for the remainder of the journey.

The airport at Samos is beautiful and unusual. Unusual in that unlike the majority of the runways in the Islands it is west/east orientated rather than north-west/southeast.

Right base for 09 at Samos with the mountains of Turkey looming in the back ground

There is a simple reason for this: to the south and east lies the sea, but to the north and west there are mountains near at hand. This presented no problem to G-EYCO, which made the invited right base for 09 and landed with a friendly wind component of 340° 15 knots: the runway is of good length.

However, commercial jets faced with the same problem do have fun. It is not by chance that some Scandinavian airlines send crews to Samos for practice approaches to a difficult airport. The procedure for commercial traffic is to approach from the north and overfly the beacon to the south, before turning to what is, in effect, a base leg of some 8-10 miles for 09. This procedure is followed almost whatever the wind (it is usually from the north west), before making a sharpish turn onto short (one mile perhaps) final, giving the passengers a fine view of the sea and the Turkish coast in the middle distance, and testing the skills of the crew to the full.

I spent a good deal of time over the next few days observing these interesting manoeuvres, from an excellent vantage point on the beach, of which more shortly.

Having been spoiled on Santorini, it was hoped to repeat a successful choice of hotel on Samos and this hope was well realised. Reference to Dana Facaros' guide had found a mention of the Dorissa Bay Village complex at Pythagorio, which examination of the chart had shown to be close proximity to the airport. The Village proved to be of great charm and comfort. It is a modern facsimile of a Samian village and the air conditioned cottage we occupied was excellent. The nearby beach is lined with tamarix trees, rather than umbrellas, and the sea was calm and warm. With delight it was discovered the beach was made up of smooth, round, flat skimming stones which sparkled in the sun and were calculated to bring delight to small boys of all ages: and the mountains of Turkey stood in rugged splendour just across the water.

Pythagorio is now a small port with ships and boats and pleasure craft. In days gone by, historians estimate its population was 300,000 and remains of ancient walls abound, together with the Efplinion Tunnel, originally 1,000 metres long and carved through the rock. The name 'Pythagorio' was only adopted in 1957, in honour of the philosopher and mathematician.

The restaurants and tavernas of Pythagorio were found to have some of the best food and wine in the Island and the next days were passed happily, the enjoyment of the sea, food and wine and the observation of the skilful activities of the commercial pilots, whose manoeuvres were clearly to be seen from the beach.

One reason for staying at Pythagorio must be a visit to Turkey and, of course, Ephesis. Despite the antagonism which sadly exists between the Greek and Turkish neighbours, realism allows tourists ashore and we joined a guided tour to this beautiful destination. The world abounds with reminders of ancient civilisations, nowhere more than in the countries of the Southern Mediterranean. Ephesis must surely be at the very top of any list of beautiful and fascinating destinations. In Roman times, it had been a functioning port: now the tide has retreated several miles and the town was laid waste long ago. What is left is of true classical beauty and little imagination is needed to see the white marble roads peopled with wealthy traders, their families, servants and slaves. The amphitheatre, while not in as good repair as that at Epidavros, is magnificent and the acoustics just as good -- I tested it with a brief (but well received) declamation in Latin. Ephesis is beautiful: tasteful restoration of the library building has been underway for some years and the guide for the day, a Turkish gentleman with a flying background and of no little erudition, was proud to show this off together with the contents of the nearby museum. He was equally proud of the hotel developments on the coast, completed or at various stages of completion, something which unfortunately did not find equal favour in the eyes of his clients of the day. It is obviously good that tourism can make such destinations easily available but the reverse is true of the building works which are carried out to further that end.

The boat trip to and from Turkey emphasised the close proximity of Samos (and indeed many other Greek Islands) to the Turkish mainland and brought to mind the sadness of the potential conflicts which lie so close to the surface in the region. Towards the end of the allotted stay we hired a car and spent a day or two exploring, passing the picturesque pantiled houses of Samos town, and thence along the north coast through lush greenery and up mountain roads: and needless to say another seaside taverna with the freshest of fish was found, on good recommendation. On the following day a drive was made along the south west coast from the airport and leading towards the infamous mountain. This was a newly surfaced (and largely unprotected) road, but of acceptable dimensions, which produced yet more spectacular views of the sea and nearby Islands, from a height of 2,000 to 3,000 feet -- aerial views indeed. It is difficult not to return again and again to the beauty of the scenery which is to be found throughout this marvellous part of the world.

 

Samos to Marathon

Later the standard visit to the tower was made to discuss routing and file a flightplan for the return to Marathon. The plan, which had been drawn up following the Airways to circumnavigate an intervening danger area was criticised in a friendly way by the controller who suggested that it might be preferable to follow the VFR route to the southwest as adopted by Olympic Airways as far as to the reporting point at RIPLI. This was agreed and the controller at once phoned through to Athens Control to obtain confirmation that this procedure was agreed.

G-EYCO was found to be in good order although very dusty, for the wind had continued to blow -- and in need of 1 litre of oil, which was probably to be not too bad after 19 hours of flying.

The next day dawned bright and clear. We fuelled the aircraft -- a lengthy process -- and the parking and landing charges in modest amount paid. Today's Controller expressed the opinion that the original flightplan would have been better, but offered no objection. He proved to be very knowledgeable and interesting as to the vagaries of his airport, with the difficulties which it offered to commercial aircraft.

The departure was uneventful and the flight along the south coast, looking at the road which had been traversed the previous day, was beautiful as ever. We gave a reasonably wide berth to the mountain, and only a mild version of the unpleasant turbulence was encountered. Ikaria was in view and the similarity which it bears to the ridged back of a mythical beast of monstrous proportions was noted with interest -- another mountainous destination.

On transfer from Samos, contact was eventually established with Athens Information, the impediment being a controller who (speaking in Greek) might well have been ordering his breakfast and lunch, not merely for that day but for many days to come. Then over to Mykonos with further enthralling views of the islands en route, and onwards to the KRS and finally a straight in approach to Marathon. The radio masts to the west of the airfield were again noted with incredulity.

With the exception of the short period of turbulence by the mountain, the flight from Samos to Marathon had been calm and interesting, with clear visibility and the first sighting of other aircraft -- two Olympic Airways Dorniers on inter-island routes, proceeding in the opposite direction and clearly at altitude 3,500' as opposed to our 4,500' of G-EYCO.

The fixing of screens and the usual formalities were carried out, this time with aid of my brother, a resident of Athens for 30 years, and his two young sons, and G-EYCO was left once again, with an admonition from the Controller in the Tower to "stay a month".

The next eight days were spent on the ground at Skinos on the Halycon Sea, which makes the southern end of the Gulf of Corinth. The joyful activities of the family group probably do not need description: swimming and mountain climbing, eating and drinking featured high on the agenda and it is clear that not only on the Islands of the Aegean can good fun be had in Greece.

The 19th of July was the proposed departure date and another lesson was learned: the day had dawned bright and sunny but obviously very breezy. A call to Athens Met produced a good forecast for the route to Corfu. It has to be said that no mention was made of turbulence, and an unhurried departure for the 1.5 hour drive from Athens to Marathon was made. This was a mistake: the temperature was rising rapidly and as a result the wind was clearly getting up. On arrival at the Tower at Marathon, the advice was short and to the point -- don't go. Severe turbulence had been experienced on the VFR route to Corinth and the moral which should have been clear to the pilot by this time, was that in such warm parts an early morning departure has to be a GOOD IDEA. However, all was not lost: the aircraft was fuelled and generally checked over and landing and parking fees paid.

 

Marathon to Corfu

July 20th dawned: there was demonstrably less wind and the forecast was good. It had been established that it is not possible to leave Marathon before 0530 UTC which was a pity, although the airport would be opened at 0500 so that the aircraft could be prepared.

A detailed Met briefing was offered by an enthusiastic Met. man and the take off with a 14 knot head wind was again smooth: 360° were carried out over the field to reach the required altitude of 6,000' to join the VFR route. Contact was made with Kotroni approach and then Athens Information. The mountains to the north of Skinos were viewed with some concern but in fact very little turbulence was experienced. The subsequent flight along the Gulf of Corinth was, once again, quite incredible, for the day was very clear and the serried ranges of the Pelopponese mountains presented a prospect which alone would have made the whole journey worthwhile. G-EYCO followed the reverse track to that followed on the outward leg some six weeks earlier, eventually making a gradual descent to land at Corfu airport with wind calm, following admonitions to keep up speed behind a friendly airbus. A Caledonian jet was waiting at the holding point and to save time we studiously flew most of the length of the runway before touchdown, an action which produced a friendly wave from the Caledonian captain.

Weeks having gone by, Corfu was now in its high season, and without more ado the pilot's AOPA card was proceeded to the Corfu Palace Hotel, a large, modern and satisfactory establishment: the card resulting in an equally satisfactory discount, but it was all a far cry from the Golden Beach on Karpathos.

We hired a car and explored the delights of Corfu. The town was busy and beautiful as ever, bustling with life, including a charming march past on the second evening, by a brass band in red uniform with pretty majorettes to match, and sitting out in the squares in the warm evening, eating and drinking and watching these and other activities was enjoyable indeed. For the rest, the island is indisputably very beautiful: however the despoliation of the beaches and seaside by indiscriminate nasty development is beyond belief and only after a conscientious was a beach found which had not totally been ruined. Doubtless there are others, but the message in regard to seaside Corfu is -- how beautiful it once must have been.

 

Corfu to Naples

On the third day we continued our homeward journey. Bright sunshine and no problems with the Met: flightplanning had been done on the previous evening, and we had phoned Naples for a clearance number, and the request made on the flightplan for fuel. A jolly charade ensued, we made our way from customs to CAA to customs to be faced with the proposition that it was not permissible (on this occasion) to walk out to the aircraft: with very good grace the Olympic bus offered its services (no handling fee being sought or paid) and eventually fuel -- cash only -- was obtained. The general impression was of a real wish to help, but of confusion. There was no such confusion in the Tower, and take-off was effected with the cruise height of 4,500' being speedily attained and the proximity of the Albanian coast again noted.

Contact was made at the FIR boundary with Brindisi Information, and a further climb to flight level 85 carried out so as to avoid the necessity of diversion around the military base at Gioia del Colle. From Brindisi to that base, the Italian countryside was a uniform drab brown, although quite clearly under cultivation with what seemed to be many smallholdings. With real sympathy, a number of towns were seen which appeared to be of great age but accompanied by surrounding accretions of great areas of high rise buildings.

After Gioia, the airway tracks to the aptly named LUNAR, where the landscape is exactly that, brown and almost unearthly in appearance, interspersed with gorges, spectacular ridges and dried up river beds.

Eventually descent was made through the mountains so as to reach the required VFR route height of 1,500' passing over Annunciata to Nocera. These reporting points are cunningly placed, with Vesuvius interposed between the required track and the airfield: not surprisingly, RT contact was lost, to be replaced by radio noises from a transmitter on the mountains nearby which was broadcasting Italian pop music. However, normal service was soon resumed and, with Vesuvius once again at close range, landing effected.

The flightplan request had again worked, and G-EYCO was directed to the fuel pumps. Gesac turned up, viewed the affair with some disfavour and went away, never to be seen again: however the fuel men were charming and once their operations had been completed, the crew of G-EYCO made its way towards the Civil Aviation Authority Office, armed on this occasion with knowledge of where to go, only to be arrested en route by Airport Police: however, after some partially understood admonitions, we were allowed to continue the hike to the office where a protest was made at the 'handling fee'. A suitable reduction was made.

 

Naples to Calvi

After a satisfactorily short stop at a very hot airport, the journey continued with full frontal views of Vesuvius, Capri and Isschia and later Ponza and Gilio: how diverse and beautiful are these islands.

The Rome Information Controller was clarity and politeness itself: it soon became apparent that he was 'testing' the briefing of G-EYCO as to the complexities of the VFR route, coming on air just before the various reporting points, to verify height and position. The flight at 1000', which continued for an hour or so was extremely unpleasant: for the first time, the cabin of G-EYCO became very hot -- the outside air temperature was 37šC and the sun was shining, the discomfort being alleviated to some extent by judicious positioning of charts.

In due course and back at a sensible altitude, Elba was again seen to be an interesting future destination a rapid descent was made from Flight Level 65 over the mountains of Corsica to the reporting point at Calvi NE. As mentioned earlier, downwind left-hand for the northerly runway at Calvi is an experience in itself, and on this occasion there was full opportunity to study the nearness of the high ground to starboard and the mountains dead ahead, and to port.

Calvi also was now in high season. The town was bustling but the restaurants were coping and an excellent hotel was produced in the "Abbaye" (thanks to the Tourism Office). The previous short stay had shown Corsica to be so beautiful that it was decided to spend two nights and to explore a little further. This we did. The road to the south-west of Calvi was, yet again, quite spectacular, and a small almost deserted cove with warm sea, was found after an interesting hilly drive. The possibilities of this island cannot be over-stressed, with its magnificent scenery, and the promise of the journey by train linking Calvi through the mountains, with Corte, Bastia and Ajaccio.

 

Calvi to Jersey

On Friday, July 24th the Met offered good weather, although undoubtedly with headwinds, all the way to Jersey. It had been decided to route via Clermont Ferrand by way of change of track, although the initial routing, at Flight level 85, would again pass over St Tropez, Digne and Montelimar. On this occasion, the scenery was not masked by cloud cover, and the charm of the hinterland of St. Tropez, with its hills and dried up river beds and almost complete absence of habitation, was admired.

After Montelimar the Massif Central gradually changed into a green, if high level, pastoral landscape and a landing was made at a hot Clermont Ferrand. Fuelling, the payment of the landing fee and the eating of a sandwich took but a short time, and the final leg to the home Island was soon begun. Cloud did now appear and at flight level 105 the tops for some time became a little imposing. However, the recognisable landmarks of Tours, Laval, Le Mans, Granville and Mont St. Michel came and went with increasing speed as the headwind fell away.

The Jersey ATIS gave a light westerly with Cavok and descent was commenced at Granville for landing on runway 27. The only upsetting factor was the first sight of Jersey which was undoubtedly green and beautiful as ever but flat in appearance: this after so many views of Islands during the preceding 6.5 weeks, every one mountainous to some degree. After landing, it was noted that the final day from Calvi to Jersey had involved a little over six hours flying, as opposed to the wind assisted five hours on the way out.

 

This was an exciting and enjoyable adventure into distant airspace, with wonderful views and scenes and flights to stunning destinations.

 

Some statistics: the distance covered came out at just under 4,000 nautical miles, with a total start up to shut down time of 34 hours 10 minutes. 1277 litres of 100L were used together with two litres of oil. At current exchange rates, the cost of the fuel was £980 while Parking and Landing fees totalled £190, this latter figure inflated by a charge of £30 at Naples on the way out, reducing to £18 after protest on the way home, no handling at all having been supplied by Gesac on either occasion.

 

An edited version of this article was originally published in March 1999 issue of Flyer magazine.